Mali

The Beating Heart of the Mandé Empire

Mali

10 days - November 14-23, 2008

Economically Mali may be one of the poorest countries in Africa, but musically it's one of the richest on earth. The names of Mali's biggest stars - Ali Farka Touré, Salif Keita, Oumou Sangaré and the Rail Band - will be familiar to anyone with an interest in African music.

Bamako, Mali's capital, has a rich musical scene - and you'll get a good flavour of the clubs and nightlife on this trip, as well as some excursions out to surrounding areas to witness music in rural West Africa, which is a fantastic experience in itself. Mali's rich rural traditions are the source from which the popular urban scene in the capital draws. In Bamako, there are some amazing clubs, but the best music isn't always easy to find - you need to know where to go and when.

We can also visit djembé and kora makers - some of the best in West Africa - to see the skills that go into making the instruments. We'll hear great singers and instrumentalists on the distinctive instruments of Malian music - the kora (a sublime creation of gourd, cow-skin and fishing line), balafon (traditional xylophone) and djembé drum. This is a privileged music opportunity and one that no fan of African music should miss.

Of course visitors on this trip must understand that musicians may be away on tour and that the music scene changes on a month by month basis. Some things may be impossible to arrange, but usually something surprising turns up to make up for it. If you are prepared to be flexible, you will not be disappointed.

All Songlines Music Travellers will receive an information sheet about the local music, plus recommended recordings and DVDs.

Mali Itinerary - 10 days

Day 1

A late afternoon departure from London. We head south, via Casablanca, to West Africa.

Day 2

Our flight lands at Bamako airport in the early hours of the morning. We are met by our Songlines Travel Leader and transferred to our hotel. Time for some sleep then, before we meet up at breakfast. The morning is free, for you to use as you wish. Perhaps a rest, a swim, or a beer gazing over the Niger river. After lunch a city tour will orientate you as to what is where in the city. In the evening, after dinner, we head for the clubs to enjoy Saturday night in Bamako.

Day 3

Today we drive out of Bamako. After an hour or so, we reach Sibi, an important location in the history of the Mandé empire. Against a backdrop of spectacular rock formations we can learn about the history of Sunjata Keita's empire in the 13th century. The story will be told by one of our 'griot' friends - and it is still the inspiration for musical accounts today. We return to Bamako for the evening and after dinner there's probably more music to round off the evening.

Day 4

After breakfast we visit the National Museum of Mali and the Modern Arts Conservatory. A chance to learn at first-hand about Mali and its music through a workshop, seminar or hands-on experience. We can also visit Toumani Diabaté's kora workshop and a workshop for djembé drums.

Day 5

After a free morning in Bamako, we leave the city again, heading this time for the Sikasso region. Our destination is a quiet lodge by a lake. Here during the evening, in the thatched bar, we will be joined by local balafon players who will play the traditional xylophone for us and discuss their music against the backdrop of the lake, its fishermen and birds. A peaceful evening in total contrast to the bustle of Bamako.

Day 6

Today we spend much of the day driving, as we head up-country to Ségou, on the banks of the Niger. On arrival, time to rest or wander the streets of the town - home to the great ngoni player Bassekou Kouyaté. In the evening we hear some of the distinctive Bambara music of Ségou.

Day 7

A day in Ségou to explore this laid-back town. We'll organise a pirogue (boat) trip along the river to a small village of pottery-makers. A chance to chill out and and enjoy the riverside life of the town.

Day 8

We drive back to Bamako and, after checking into our hotel, we can catch up on a Friday night in Bamako. If Toumani Diabaté is in town, it's got to be the Hogon club.

Day 9

Our last day in the city. You can either spend the time having a wander around the Bamako craft market and going to Kader Keita's street children's workshop where they make bogolon (mud cloth), or our Travel Leader will arrange an optional trip out into the countryside to Kita, the home of singer Kandia Kouyaté, and situated at the foot of a dramatic cliff connected to the story of Sunjata Keita. In the evening we can head into town for a last taste of the music of Mali, but after that we may be heading straight for the airport.

Day 10

Our flight to the UK leaves in the early hours of the morning. Time for just a few hours sleep before midnight, or perhaps just stay out with the music until it's time to drive to the airport. Our flight goes via Casablanca and we arrive back in the UK in the early afternoon.