Senegal - Dakar

Never Mind the Mbalax

Senegal

10 days - November 28-December 7, 2008

Dakar is one of the music capitals of Africa - renowned for its mbalax music, the rhythmic dance style pioneered by Youssou N'Dour; and hip-hop scene, one of the liveliest in Africa, credited for bringing an end to 40 years of socialist rule in 2000. But it's a city that's hard to negotiate as an outsider. With Songlines' help you can visit the best clubs, see the fashion and see the beautiful old colonial capital of St Louis.

We'll take you to the busy downtown markets of Dakar, the picturesque medina, and also to Gorée island. It's a pleasant trip now, but the history is grim. It's from here that West African slaves were dispatched to the New World.

It's the sabar drums that are at the root of mbalax music, and we'll go to a workshop for some hands-on experience of traditional sabar drumming. Then, of course, Dakar's nightspots are infamous, including Youssou's Thiossane, Thione Seck's Kilimanjaro, Baobab's Just 4 U and the youthful Yengoulène - but it depends who's in town.

Of course visitors on this trip must understand that musicians may be away on tour and that the music scene changes on a month by month basis. Some things may be impossible to arrange, but usually something surprising turns up to make up for it. If you are prepared to be flexible, you will not be disappointed.

All Songlines Music Travellers will receive an information sheet about the local music, plus recommended recordings and DVDs.

Senegal Itinerary - 10 days

Day 1

From London, a late afternoon flight via Casablanca.

Day 2

We arrive at Dakar airport in the early hours of the morning and are transferred to the hotel. Time to catch up on a little sleep and meet your Songlines Travel Leader at breakfast. The morning is free to rest or take a walk into the bustling streets of the capital. In the afternoon there will be an orientation tour of Dakar, to give you a sense of what there is to see. In the evening we'll uncover the Dakar music scene on a Saturday night.

Day 3

Today we take a ferry for the island of Gorée. Sunday is when many Dakar families head out for a day on the island. A visit to the Slave Museum, a more-relaxed stroll along the sandy streets and lunch at one of the many restaurants by the beach next to the jetty. We'll head back to town in time for a few hours in the hotel before setting out for the evening.

Day 4

Today is free for you to explore the markets of Dakar, or to head for the beaches out of the city, at Ngor. After dinner our third visit to the clubs of the capital takes us into the night.

Day 5

After breakfast we leave Dakar for a drive of some 200 miles up the Atlantic coast to St Louis - the old French colonial capital of West Africa. With a stop at the Pink Lake en route and an opportunity for a close encounter with baobab trees, we should arrive in St Louis in the late afternoon. After checking into our hotel, there's time for a wander in the narrow streets of this island town before dinner. Then the music scene of St Louis.

Day 6

This morning we have arranged a walking tour of the historic heart of the city. St Louis has a 19th century feel about it, and has been compared, with its decaying colonial charm, to Bahia in Brazil, Havana in Cuba and the French quarter of New Orleans. Once the capital of Senegal it lost the role at independence, but in 2000 was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Day 7

Today is a free day. You may prefer to simply wander the streets of town, or your Travel Leader will arrange an optional excursion to Djoudj National Park where a pirogue ride along the waterways will allow glimpses of the birdlife. After dinner there is time to try another club or two.

Day 8

We leave St Louis and retrace our route to Dakar. Once checked back into our hotel it's time for dinner and the Friday night scene in Dakar.

Day 9

A last day in Dakar. Shopping in the markets, a visit to the museum or a lazy day out at the beaches - the choice is yours. In the evening we'll have a last dinner together before a final night out in Dakar. You may want to head back to the hotel for some sleep before midnight or you may prefer to stay with the music.

Day 10

We transfer to the airport just after midnight as our flight back to the UK leaves in the early hours. Travelling via Casablanca we arrive back in the UK around midday.