Songbook: ‘A La Loma de Belén’ with Alex Cuba

The Cuban son is the foundation of salsa music, capturing hearts worldwide since its inception in the early 1900s. One inescapable classic of the form is ‘A La Loma de Belén’, written by Juana María González, the wife of Felipe Neri Cabrera, a singer and percussionist with the legendary ensemble Sexteto Habanero. Cabrera’s group popularised the song in the 1920s. Their version, with vocals, tres, guitars and percussion playing the clave rhythm that underpins all salsa, is indicative of son’s early style.

‘A La Loma de Belén’ is thoroughly cubano in both style and subject. While its title translates as ‘To the Hill of Bethlehem’, it’s not a religious ode to the Holy Land. Instead, it refers to the Belén district in Havana, known for its rich cultural heritage and colonial architecture. However, it notably lacks any prominent hills, which has often perplexed many locals, puzzled by which hill is being referred to. The lyrics evoke joy, community and celebration: inviting listeners to dance rumba and guaguancó (a rumba offshoot) together on Belén’s mythical hill.

Perhaps it’s this jubilation that has seen the song covered so often over the last century. A 1963 interpretation by the salsa orchestra El Gran Combo de Puerto Rico added up-tempo twists and brassy flair to the track. Meanwhile, Miguel Quintana’s 1982 rendition takes a percussive-forward approach with prolonged instrumental breaks.

Yet, before those versions, it crossed the Atlantic to Zaire (prior to its renaming as the Democratic Republic of the Congo) where a craze for Congolese rumba – which incorporated sounds being imported from Cuba – was well underway. In 1970, the song was recorded as ‘Lalouma de Belen’ by L’African Team, who added honking horns, strings and a seismic bassline for a distinctly Afro-jazz flavour. L’African Team were led by legendary Congolese bandleader Joseph ‘Le Grand Kallé’ Kabasele, sometimes included Manu Dibango in their ranks (though not on this track), and also Cuban flautist and saxophonist Don Gonzalo. And surely it was the latter who introduced the song to the group, as Gonzalo gives himself writing credit on their take. This version is now being released on African Jazz Invites O.K. Jazz, a new compilation from Belgian record label Planet Ilunga featuring Congolese Afro-jazz classics recorded between 1961 and 1970.

The song continues to capture artistic imaginations in the modern age: in 2022, Israeli double-bassist Avishai Cohen released a slower, jazz-infused rendition of the song on Iroko, a collaborative project with Puerto Rican vocalist Abraham Rodriguez Jr.

Another memorable version came from Canadian-Cuban artist Alex Cuba. In 2024, Cuba covered the song with his brother, Adonis, and included it on his deeply personal album Voces De Mi Familia (Voices of My Family). “It is my youth, time spent with my father, and my connection to Cuban tradition,” says Alex, his face animated as he discusses the track. Alex’s father, Valentín, also a musician, often featured a rendition of ‘A La Loma de Belén’ as a staple in his band’s live performances in Cuba. For Alex, the song is a link to his family and their collective appreciation of music, drawing a line to the cultural influences that continue to underpin his creativity.

Covering such a well-known and iconic song can be a daunting task, and Alex was mindful of staying true to the essence of his source material. “It’s a classic, you can’t mess with it too much,” he explains. While the emotion remains, he decided to switch up the instrumentation. “A traditional Cuban band starts with all the instruments at once. I made mine more stripped back and built it up gradually.”

Influenced by Alex’s time in North America, his take reenvisions the song through a contemporary folk lens. Despite his changes, Alex has won approval from listeners back in Cuba, who are familiar with its traditional versions: “A lot of Cuban people have complimented it because it sounds fresh”, he says.

From its roots in early Afro-Cuban ensembles to its reinventions in salsa orchestras, Congolese rumba and Alex Cuba’s stripped-back, personal take, ‘A La Loma de Belén’ continues to inspire with its heartfelt simplicity and irresistible groove – and long may it continue to do so. 

+ African Jazz Invites O.K. Jazz is out now on Planet Ilunga